Ghost Ranch. Georgia O’Keeffe. Arroyos. Northern New Mexico. Near Abiquiu,
about an hour north of Santa Fe, Richard Belanger and his ever-changing band
of assistants, associates and helpers grow some of the tastiest produce this
side of the Rio Chama. Or is it the other side?
Whatever side of the river you’re on, Harmony Farm is yet another story of how
people with drive, a little piece of land and a whole lot of hard work make good
food from soil, air, water and seeds.
The farm might feel isolated, but Harmony Farm is very much a member of the
local food community. Their familiar blue bus makes its presence known every
Saturday morning at the Santa Fe Farmers’ Market. Richard told us that nearly
eighty per cent of their sales happen at the market in five hours. We saw first
hand how they conducted business on a couple of hectic Saturdays. People
can’t wait for the blue bus to arrive. And why not? The good food Harmony is
selling on Saturday’s market day, was picked the day before (and sometimes
even the morning of).
It’s fitting then, that you’ll see this quote from the first President of the Czech
Republic, Vaclav Havel, on their website:
“I am in favor of things that have authenticity, roots, originality, verve, balance,
taste, communications, challenge, relevance to their time — in short, things
that make sense.”
David Falkowski is getting a reputation. . . as the Mushroom Man. He’s busy
building his business, Open Minded Organics into one of those “must visit” tables
at the Sag Harbor Farmers’ Market. A legion of fans flock to his pop-up tent to
purchase his succulent fungi before they’re gone. And if you happen to dine at
a top-flight East End restaurant, chances are you’re eating Open Minded.
They state what they’re doing right on their home page: “We are passionate about
growing organic mushrooms, as well as being advocates and supporters of local
sustainable agriculture.”
Mr. Falkowski (and his partner, Ashley Tomkiel) are literally hand-crafting each
small batch of mushrooms. They grow their own spawn and harvest by hand at the
last possible minute to ensure their mushrooms arrive at their peak of freshness.
Lots of younger people are finding agriculture as a way to do something positive
for the earth, for their customers and for themselves. David’s motivation is the
same thing, only he took a few twists and turns and entered through the mycelium.
And the mushroom eaters that get to taste his wares are better for it.
Art Ludlow could not be happier. He and his family made a decision a few years
ago to stop farming potatoes, with the intention of starting a dairy operation. The
idea was that a few pastured cows would give premium milk and he would start
producing delicious, hand made, farmstead cheeses. Fortunately for the cheese
eating public, his plan worked.
Located near Bridgehampton, on Long Island, New York, his farm, Mecox Bay
Dairy, produces a fabulous variety of raw milk cheese that continues to gain
momentum among those who appreciate “milk’s leap toward immortality”, as
author Clifton Fadiman so eloquently wrote.
Anne Saxelby, from Saxelby Cheesemongers says Art’s cheeses “have a complex
and earthy flavor” and she compares his Atlantic Mist to a French Camembert.
That gave Art Ludlow, cheese maker, yet another reason to smile.
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